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Spyder Reusing Valve Keepers with the Same Valves

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VT_4G63

Proven Member
56
26
Mar 23, 2021
Saugerties, New_York
I pulled the head on my Spyder to upgrade cams, springs, valve seals, lifters, etc.

It looks like the valves and valve seats are in good shape so I’m going to just clean them both up and reuse the valves. Originally I was thinking about putting in NEW valves while doing all this work but am pretty sure I am just going to put the factory Mitsubishi valves back in.

I’ve read in multiple places over the years that you should not reuse valve keepers due to material grooving. My question is does this apply to using NEW valves, or does it also apply if you are, in fact, just reusing the same valves they were mated with from the beginning?

I bagged and tagged the entire valve train upon disassembly so I can reassemble the valves with the same keepers they were with before.

Do I need to buy new keepers or can I reuse the ones I have?
 
I've reused them many times.

If you've got it all apart, clean up the valves and lap them while you're at it.
 
Keepers can be reused. Ive never heard the opposite in nearly 16 years. Then again Im not on Facebook, maybe that's where it started?

Keepers are just little chunks of metal that prevent the valve from pulling through the retainer, as you know. I've never seen one deformed enough to allow the valve to slip through. They get jammed in there pretty good and don't disintegrate.
 
I've reused them many times.

If you've got it all apart, clean up the valves and lap them while you're at it.
Keepers can be reused. Ive never heard the opposite in nearly 16 years. Then again Im not on Facebook, maybe that's where it started?

Keepers are just little chunks of metal that prevent the valve from pulling through the retainer, as you know. I've never seen one deformed enough to allow the valve to slip through. They get jammed in there pretty good and don't disintegrate.

Thanks for the replies. Coming from you guys, that’s enough reassurance for me to feel fine about reusing them.

I’m not sure where I originally read that they shouldn’t be reused, I think it was in the product description for aftermarket 4G63 keepers, so that should obviously be taken with a grain of salt.

I’m still on the fence about lapping the valves. I was originally planning on doing it but am nervous about messing something up, as I haven’t done it before. I do own the compound and the lapping tool, though. The valve seats and valves both look really good under a magnifying glass, I didn’t see any pitting or anything. However, since I have everything apart, I should probably just go for it, like Jason said.

Thanks again
 
Lapping to improve sealing is a waste of time. If you lap enough to remove all imperfections you will just wear the valve face all concave and round the edges of the seat. The defined angles will be gone and the seating will be terrible. A couple quick swipes to clean it off and check the pattern is all that's needed. Anything more than that and it's time to get the head done.

Do not let a shop that is clueless work on the head. Don't ever cut the seats unless you are getting guides done. There are only a few VJ's worth of material in the seats at best, and guides will generally eat up a lot of it. The guides are not concentric, new guides are. Now the valve has moved. By the time you get this sorted the valve has sunk and the tip height is too high - fixing it means new seats. Our valves don't have thick tips, so if you grind the tips to lower the height then you get into the soft core, and they die fast killing the rockers too.

In my experience the valves wear much faster than the seats, and I usually grind the valves on a head I'm going through, but never touch the seats unless it's absolutely needed and the guides are perfect. I use permanent maker on the seats and valves and rub them in to check the pattern.

If you do try to lap anything make sure you clean clean clean. Get a brush to swab the guides. Seals gotta come off, plugs out the end of the oil galleys, swab them too. Use a 5gal pail and a couple gallons of mineral spirits at minimum. Hot soapy water after.
 
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