enriquez2000
Proven Member
- 2,277
- 820
- Oct 5, 2014
-
fort collins,
Colorado
Make sure you rinse well and dont get it stuck in baffles!Ready for paint stripper
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Make sure you rinse well and dont get it stuck in baffles!Ready for paint stripper
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Making your own poly is pretty easy.. i made my own for my trans side until I got a better one from boostedfab.Went a little crazy. I've been researching putting together toe and control arms for the Talon. Even though the car is far from being done, I ordered all the pieces. All in all I spent less than $300 for all the parts. Once I see where my funds are at I'm going to order an ATE and maybe see about getting some poly to pour my own rear sub-frame mounts since no one makes any anymore. I'd like to make some solids, but am not set up for that.
Also did you check here... jnz usually stays up on whats in stockWent a little crazy. I've been researching putting together toe and control arms for the Talon. Even though the car is far from being done, I ordered all the pieces. All in all I spent less than $300 for all the parts. Once I see where my funds are at I'm going to order an ATE and maybe see about getting some poly to pour my own rear sub-frame mounts since no one makes any anymore. I'd like to make some solids, but am not set up for that.
I think I looked at that yesterday. They only thing that would suck is I don't need the mustache bar bushings since I have a boosted fab bar. I might still go with that if necessary.Also did you check here... jnz usually stays up on whats in stock
Ostar Mitsubishi 1G AWD DSM & GVR-4 Rear Subframe Bushing Kit | JNZtuning.com
85A Shore Durometer Hardness Replacement Bushings for the rear subframe and mustache bars on 1990-1994 DSM AWDs and 1987-1992 Galant VR-4. Please see additional photos for positions where they're used on the car.jnztuning.com
In my xfer and diff I just use amsoil synthetic 75w90... i dont buy into needing thicker than that in thereNothing physical to it, all thought. I'll remove the valve springs tomorrow..
Although I'm nowhere near needing fluids yet (waiting in queue for rotating assembly balancing), trying to think ahead to driveline fluids.
68hta v3, stock trans, xfer, and LSD diff
Originally was going to do MT90 in the trans since I've used it for years but wondering if I should go up to 75w140. For xfer case and rear diff was considering lightweight shockproof. Heavyweight was in it already but I honestly don't think it's necessary. Top people say yes, top people say no due to waxiness and tendency to be flung to case and not drain well. I think I read that heat transfer is also poor compared to regular 75w140 or 80w140.
Under my ownership, car will likely never see a dragstrip. It's just a cruiser and sometimes bruiser. Sustained high speed will be less than 80mph.
Also have been reading 75w140NS in the diff, and 75w140 in the xfer.
Honestly can't make up my mind.
I can highly recommend the platinum as that’s what I used for the entire underside before prime and paint.Ignore the rust Thinking about getting some eastwood rust encapsulator plus to handle that
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They’ve been discontinued for years so it might not be updated.Also did you check here... jnz usually stays up on whats in stock
Ostar Mitsubishi 1G AWD DSM & GVR-4 Rear Subframe Bushing Kit | JNZtuning.com
85A Shore Durometer Hardness Replacement Bushings for the rear subframe and mustache bars on 1990-1994 DSM AWDs and 1987-1992 Galant VR-4. Please see additional photos for positions where they're used on the car.jnztuning.com
I realized that I don’t have the time to do what I want to this car and I’d hate to let it sit or crush it. I haven’t washed or done much to it if anyone needs a surface rust chassis for a racecar.
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I’d have to hook up a battery and find out and take some better pictures.Did this. So stoked.
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Got it all torqued in and loctited(Crank bolts) and ready to rock. On my next day off I'll get the trans stabbed in, everything topped with fluids, and ready to rock 'n' roll, bleed the slave too.
Do the interior electronics work like auto seatbelts and fan controls/etc?
I'm sorely tempted, man. I ain't skurred of surface rust and this shell is just a little too much of a run basket case.
4 ugga duggasAlright where in the FSM are the tourqe specs for this. I've searched almost every section. Half tempted to just leave it off at this point since I was already considering deleting the power steering.
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I trim mine for exhaust manifold bolt easeThank you I appreciate it! Still wanting to just get rid of the power steering stuff and clean up the engine bay but we will see.
Dremmel with wire wheel?Well it took all day with paint stripper and a steel brush aaaannnndd I only got most of it...pretty bummed but this stuff is some serious paint. It's that rubbery/vinyl kind. May try again or just throw it on because I have no idea how I'm going to get in where it goes over the front cam caps.
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